3.14.2011

apple tea.

I'm sitting on my bed in Rome, anxious to get up and get ice cream, but more anxious to turn the memories of the past two weeks into words.

Let's start with this | The week in Istanbul taught me a great deal.

I had never been to a place like this before, and although I had prepared myself for this abrupt change, no words can truly prepare you for the individual experiences.  Strolling through Istanbul became the catch phrase of our time there.  Even though strolling sometimes accelerated to running, the time spent there was just enough to develop a deep appreciation for New Rome.

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THE SITES_what we explored

Hagia Sophia_the former Orthodox basilica, later mosque, now museum; this space is truly on its own standing.
The most difficult part of sketching was having the confidence to actually begin drawing.  It's overwhelming looking at an incredible space hoping to discover what makes it special while translating it onto the pages of my sketchbook.  Eventually I will master the art of rendering what I feel in a space, getting away from the comfortable drawings and doing something unexpected.
The upper gallery is definitely worth a trip up the curving ramp (a surprisingly easy trip after the Duomo in Firenze).  
The best part of the visit | When other tourists began taking pictures of me sketching instead of the museum, I knew it was nearly time to go.  We all came back from discovering on our own, and ready to leave, we found "x" markings etched into the floor.  We realized the marks inscribe the circumference of the dome from above and began spreading ourselves around the center of Hagia Sophia.  We were unknowingly in the process of creating our own public art instillation.  Needless to say we got more attention doing this than we did sketching.

A few other visits: The Yani Valide, Rustem Pasha mosque, the Spice Market, Kariye Museum, the Grand Bazaar, the Beyazit Mosque, and the Archaeological Museum.

Some of my favorite mosques had the simplest architectural moves and series of spaces.  The Sokollu Mehmet mosque has one of the most appealing sections with simple level changes leading from the street level into the court, from the court to the entry, and into the threshold of the mosque beyond.  The carpet beneath your feet had something special in its fiber.  The space felt sacred and intimate yet grand and unfathomable.  Every detail of tile patterning is organic and symmetrical.  My attention is drawn everywhere.  The sound of the prayer call begins and we scurry to our shoes, hoping not to be in the way.  Something about drawing gets you lost in this world.
Every sight in between mosque visits made me appreciate the city even more.  The smell of curry and kebap followed us around street corners as cats hid in the smallest spaces.  Sights of the harbor across to Asia caught my eye. Street vendors call out speaking any language necessary to get our attention.  Baklava is everywhere.

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MEMORY_things I will never forget

The turkish baths_a true bonding experience and something I am fortunate I was able to do.  From hot to cold water, back cracking and heated slabs of marble, nothing compares.  I would do it again in a heartbeat, especially to see light filtering through the dome during the day.

The spice market_an array of teas and aromatics.  Vendors calling out to the people walking by.  Turkish delights piled high.  Narrow alleys and deep stores. A relief from the cold.

Getting lost_finding the roof of an old Han.  For the most exciting and authentic view in all of Istanbul from inside the city walls, I recommend getting lost, climbing up a few dark stairwells, and finding your way onto an old roof.  This moment was truly the best un-planned adventure of the entire trip. I recommended putting it on the program schedule for next year.

Hookah bars_just do it.  My first time trying hookah, I know it will never be topped.  Going out on a night adventure we decided that it would be adventurous to find a nice hookah bar.  The first man who approaches me I say what the hell...we file the group into a carpet store? We climb to the top floor to the building to one of the best views overlooking Hagia Sophia.  The next four hours were blissful.  A few nights before leaving we also had the chance of meeting a Turkish rock musician at a hookah bar recommended to us by our professor.  Jam session followed by long google translated chats with Andrew Speer and the musician's gang.  I do not regret going out that night.

photo credit|Kelly Corcoran
Apple tea_The warmest little concoction served in a small glass cup|mismatching saucers.

At first it's too hot to handle, you can barely hold it.  Suddenly it becomes the only thing you need.
I already miss the sugar cubes and the clanging of the metal spoons. 

Istanbul is all about senses.  It's a city that can be explored a different way each time you see it.  I have said (and will continue to say) Istanbul is a place I never considered visiting on my own before.  Now that I have, I would go back without question.  I am lucky to have been there.
Topkapi Sarayi Complex|Court of the Black Eunuchs
Blye Mosque|Sultan Ahmet Camii
Sokollu Mehmet mosque|Sinan

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