3.28.2011

the piece must speak for itself


The Project: Why is inglobare and/or spolia, as practiced or in concept, important for you as an architect?
The Process: Interviews and portraits of how others see spolia.
What I learned: How exactly Romans and outsiders see this incorporation and re-use of Roman structures.  How to get to the root of how spolia speaks to these people through art, photography, and in their daily experiences. How to edit, let go of control, and let work speak for itsef. 

3.17.2011

And we're all from Barcelona

I began my spring break this year with a few visitors from Barcelona and Brussles.  Minutes after getting off of the plane from Istanbul, visitor one appeared and the two day Roman adventure began.

Getting over the initial shock of being right back into the heart of Italy, I realized on the speedy cab drive home that this would be a much needed few days of relief.

The group of us who would spend the next few days in Rome met at Piazza di Spagna, a site we knew a first timer in Rome could find (unless you approach it from the back like Liz).  The phone conversation trying to find where she was|"Liz...are you at the Spanish Steps?"

Through the wind and rain of the first day we managed to see all of the most important sights while enjoying some of the finer parts of the Roman day.

While our guests got a later start to the second day, Marisa and I ventured out to the Trevi Fountain, hoping it would be emptier that normal at this time of day.  Of course it was just as packed as usual, even with the rain, but we got to experience something special that day.
Thinking to myself what the actual building backdrop to the fountain was used as, I asked Marisa if she thought we coluld get inside.
We looked at eachother with a smirk and slowly passed through the sea of umbrellas.

The building turned out to be a museum of graphics.
Interesting.
Realizing it was free and hiding our umbrellas so that we didn't have to leave them in a pile, we ventured in.  On the main level of the museum, we realized where we were in relation to the outside.  The fountain was right behind those windows...
So naturally we play dumb, open up the shutters, and snag a few shots before an employee had a chance to stop us.  At least we got the pictues.

By day two we had been from the top of Vittorio Emanuele II to the Vatican and all in between making sure to hit up Giolitti at least once a day.  We became tourguides by day and Romans by night.  By the end of day two, I was happy to have stayed in Rome, not just for laundry, but because it was an exciting way to see how much I have taken in over these past few months.  Just as I was settled again, it was off to España.

Beginning in Plaza Catalyuna, my adventure began the second I realized I wasn't in Kansas anymore.
My Spanish skills needed to find their way back into my mouth.

Figuring out that I had lost my directions to the Melon District, I found myself a bus to the city center, paid my 4 euro and almost slipped out a "Grazie" as I found an empty seat.

Dumped off at one of the most beautiful squares on a beautiful day, I didn't want to leave this area, even though I was lost and couldn't leave anyway.  Long story short, I was happy I brought my laptop.

Some of the highlights.

Parc Güell_An paradise of sculptured columns, mosaics, and sprawling views of the city.
La Boqueria_Spanish food at it's best.  Small fruit juices and colorful candy displays.  Fishmongers and butchers display their daily selections; some not so appetizing.
Casa Milà Antoni Gaudí|The building with a beautiful atrium, organic inspiration in metal work, chimneys and ventilation towers with sculpted guardian figures.
Casa Batlló|The one and only|Modernisme, Art Nouveau creation
an afternoon on Las Ramblas
the Barcelona Pavilion at night
At the beach
Sagrada Família
a classic crew

3.14.2011

apple tea.

I'm sitting on my bed in Rome, anxious to get up and get ice cream, but more anxious to turn the memories of the past two weeks into words.

Let's start with this | The week in Istanbul taught me a great deal.

I had never been to a place like this before, and although I had prepared myself for this abrupt change, no words can truly prepare you for the individual experiences.  Strolling through Istanbul became the catch phrase of our time there.  Even though strolling sometimes accelerated to running, the time spent there was just enough to develop a deep appreciation for New Rome.

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THE SITES_what we explored

Hagia Sophia_the former Orthodox basilica, later mosque, now museum; this space is truly on its own standing.
The most difficult part of sketching was having the confidence to actually begin drawing.  It's overwhelming looking at an incredible space hoping to discover what makes it special while translating it onto the pages of my sketchbook.  Eventually I will master the art of rendering what I feel in a space, getting away from the comfortable drawings and doing something unexpected.
The upper gallery is definitely worth a trip up the curving ramp (a surprisingly easy trip after the Duomo in Firenze).  
The best part of the visit | When other tourists began taking pictures of me sketching instead of the museum, I knew it was nearly time to go.  We all came back from discovering on our own, and ready to leave, we found "x" markings etched into the floor.  We realized the marks inscribe the circumference of the dome from above and began spreading ourselves around the center of Hagia Sophia.  We were unknowingly in the process of creating our own public art instillation.  Needless to say we got more attention doing this than we did sketching.

A few other visits: The Yani Valide, Rustem Pasha mosque, the Spice Market, Kariye Museum, the Grand Bazaar, the Beyazit Mosque, and the Archaeological Museum.

Some of my favorite mosques had the simplest architectural moves and series of spaces.  The Sokollu Mehmet mosque has one of the most appealing sections with simple level changes leading from the street level into the court, from the court to the entry, and into the threshold of the mosque beyond.  The carpet beneath your feet had something special in its fiber.  The space felt sacred and intimate yet grand and unfathomable.  Every detail of tile patterning is organic and symmetrical.  My attention is drawn everywhere.  The sound of the prayer call begins and we scurry to our shoes, hoping not to be in the way.  Something about drawing gets you lost in this world.
Every sight in between mosque visits made me appreciate the city even more.  The smell of curry and kebap followed us around street corners as cats hid in the smallest spaces.  Sights of the harbor across to Asia caught my eye. Street vendors call out speaking any language necessary to get our attention.  Baklava is everywhere.

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MEMORY_things I will never forget

The turkish baths_a true bonding experience and something I am fortunate I was able to do.  From hot to cold water, back cracking and heated slabs of marble, nothing compares.  I would do it again in a heartbeat, especially to see light filtering through the dome during the day.

The spice market_an array of teas and aromatics.  Vendors calling out to the people walking by.  Turkish delights piled high.  Narrow alleys and deep stores. A relief from the cold.

Getting lost_finding the roof of an old Han.  For the most exciting and authentic view in all of Istanbul from inside the city walls, I recommend getting lost, climbing up a few dark stairwells, and finding your way onto an old roof.  This moment was truly the best un-planned adventure of the entire trip. I recommended putting it on the program schedule for next year.

Hookah bars_just do it.  My first time trying hookah, I know it will never be topped.  Going out on a night adventure we decided that it would be adventurous to find a nice hookah bar.  The first man who approaches me I say what the hell...we file the group into a carpet store? We climb to the top floor to the building to one of the best views overlooking Hagia Sophia.  The next four hours were blissful.  A few nights before leaving we also had the chance of meeting a Turkish rock musician at a hookah bar recommended to us by our professor.  Jam session followed by long google translated chats with Andrew Speer and the musician's gang.  I do not regret going out that night.

photo credit|Kelly Corcoran
Apple tea_The warmest little concoction served in a small glass cup|mismatching saucers.

At first it's too hot to handle, you can barely hold it.  Suddenly it becomes the only thing you need.
I already miss the sugar cubes and the clanging of the metal spoons. 

Istanbul is all about senses.  It's a city that can be explored a different way each time you see it.  I have said (and will continue to say) Istanbul is a place I never considered visiting on my own before.  Now that I have, I would go back without question.  I am lucky to have been there.
Topkapi Sarayi Complex|Court of the Black Eunuchs
Blye Mosque|Sultan Ahmet Camii
Sokollu Mehmet mosque|Sinan