3.28.2011

the piece must speak for itself


The Project: Why is inglobare and/or spolia, as practiced or in concept, important for you as an architect?
The Process: Interviews and portraits of how others see spolia.
What I learned: How exactly Romans and outsiders see this incorporation and re-use of Roman structures.  How to get to the root of how spolia speaks to these people through art, photography, and in their daily experiences. How to edit, let go of control, and let work speak for itsef. 

3.17.2011

And we're all from Barcelona

I began my spring break this year with a few visitors from Barcelona and Brussles.  Minutes after getting off of the plane from Istanbul, visitor one appeared and the two day Roman adventure began.

Getting over the initial shock of being right back into the heart of Italy, I realized on the speedy cab drive home that this would be a much needed few days of relief.

The group of us who would spend the next few days in Rome met at Piazza di Spagna, a site we knew a first timer in Rome could find (unless you approach it from the back like Liz).  The phone conversation trying to find where she was|"Liz...are you at the Spanish Steps?"

Through the wind and rain of the first day we managed to see all of the most important sights while enjoying some of the finer parts of the Roman day.

While our guests got a later start to the second day, Marisa and I ventured out to the Trevi Fountain, hoping it would be emptier that normal at this time of day.  Of course it was just as packed as usual, even with the rain, but we got to experience something special that day.
Thinking to myself what the actual building backdrop to the fountain was used as, I asked Marisa if she thought we coluld get inside.
We looked at eachother with a smirk and slowly passed through the sea of umbrellas.

The building turned out to be a museum of graphics.
Interesting.
Realizing it was free and hiding our umbrellas so that we didn't have to leave them in a pile, we ventured in.  On the main level of the museum, we realized where we were in relation to the outside.  The fountain was right behind those windows...
So naturally we play dumb, open up the shutters, and snag a few shots before an employee had a chance to stop us.  At least we got the pictues.

By day two we had been from the top of Vittorio Emanuele II to the Vatican and all in between making sure to hit up Giolitti at least once a day.  We became tourguides by day and Romans by night.  By the end of day two, I was happy to have stayed in Rome, not just for laundry, but because it was an exciting way to see how much I have taken in over these past few months.  Just as I was settled again, it was off to España.

Beginning in Plaza Catalyuna, my adventure began the second I realized I wasn't in Kansas anymore.
My Spanish skills needed to find their way back into my mouth.

Figuring out that I had lost my directions to the Melon District, I found myself a bus to the city center, paid my 4 euro and almost slipped out a "Grazie" as I found an empty seat.

Dumped off at one of the most beautiful squares on a beautiful day, I didn't want to leave this area, even though I was lost and couldn't leave anyway.  Long story short, I was happy I brought my laptop.

Some of the highlights.

Parc Güell_An paradise of sculptured columns, mosaics, and sprawling views of the city.
La Boqueria_Spanish food at it's best.  Small fruit juices and colorful candy displays.  Fishmongers and butchers display their daily selections; some not so appetizing.
Casa Milà Antoni Gaudí|The building with a beautiful atrium, organic inspiration in metal work, chimneys and ventilation towers with sculpted guardian figures.
Casa Batlló|The one and only|Modernisme, Art Nouveau creation
an afternoon on Las Ramblas
the Barcelona Pavilion at night
At the beach
Sagrada Família
a classic crew

3.14.2011

apple tea.

I'm sitting on my bed in Rome, anxious to get up and get ice cream, but more anxious to turn the memories of the past two weeks into words.

Let's start with this | The week in Istanbul taught me a great deal.

I had never been to a place like this before, and although I had prepared myself for this abrupt change, no words can truly prepare you for the individual experiences.  Strolling through Istanbul became the catch phrase of our time there.  Even though strolling sometimes accelerated to running, the time spent there was just enough to develop a deep appreciation for New Rome.

___________________________________________

THE SITES_what we explored

Hagia Sophia_the former Orthodox basilica, later mosque, now museum; this space is truly on its own standing.
The most difficult part of sketching was having the confidence to actually begin drawing.  It's overwhelming looking at an incredible space hoping to discover what makes it special while translating it onto the pages of my sketchbook.  Eventually I will master the art of rendering what I feel in a space, getting away from the comfortable drawings and doing something unexpected.
The upper gallery is definitely worth a trip up the curving ramp (a surprisingly easy trip after the Duomo in Firenze).  
The best part of the visit | When other tourists began taking pictures of me sketching instead of the museum, I knew it was nearly time to go.  We all came back from discovering on our own, and ready to leave, we found "x" markings etched into the floor.  We realized the marks inscribe the circumference of the dome from above and began spreading ourselves around the center of Hagia Sophia.  We were unknowingly in the process of creating our own public art instillation.  Needless to say we got more attention doing this than we did sketching.

A few other visits: The Yani Valide, Rustem Pasha mosque, the Spice Market, Kariye Museum, the Grand Bazaar, the Beyazit Mosque, and the Archaeological Museum.

Some of my favorite mosques had the simplest architectural moves and series of spaces.  The Sokollu Mehmet mosque has one of the most appealing sections with simple level changes leading from the street level into the court, from the court to the entry, and into the threshold of the mosque beyond.  The carpet beneath your feet had something special in its fiber.  The space felt sacred and intimate yet grand and unfathomable.  Every detail of tile patterning is organic and symmetrical.  My attention is drawn everywhere.  The sound of the prayer call begins and we scurry to our shoes, hoping not to be in the way.  Something about drawing gets you lost in this world.
Every sight in between mosque visits made me appreciate the city even more.  The smell of curry and kebap followed us around street corners as cats hid in the smallest spaces.  Sights of the harbor across to Asia caught my eye. Street vendors call out speaking any language necessary to get our attention.  Baklava is everywhere.

____________________________________________
 
MEMORY_things I will never forget

The turkish baths_a true bonding experience and something I am fortunate I was able to do.  From hot to cold water, back cracking and heated slabs of marble, nothing compares.  I would do it again in a heartbeat, especially to see light filtering through the dome during the day.

The spice market_an array of teas and aromatics.  Vendors calling out to the people walking by.  Turkish delights piled high.  Narrow alleys and deep stores. A relief from the cold.

Getting lost_finding the roof of an old Han.  For the most exciting and authentic view in all of Istanbul from inside the city walls, I recommend getting lost, climbing up a few dark stairwells, and finding your way onto an old roof.  This moment was truly the best un-planned adventure of the entire trip. I recommended putting it on the program schedule for next year.

Hookah bars_just do it.  My first time trying hookah, I know it will never be topped.  Going out on a night adventure we decided that it would be adventurous to find a nice hookah bar.  The first man who approaches me I say what the hell...we file the group into a carpet store? We climb to the top floor to the building to one of the best views overlooking Hagia Sophia.  The next four hours were blissful.  A few nights before leaving we also had the chance of meeting a Turkish rock musician at a hookah bar recommended to us by our professor.  Jam session followed by long google translated chats with Andrew Speer and the musician's gang.  I do not regret going out that night.

photo credit|Kelly Corcoran
Apple tea_The warmest little concoction served in a small glass cup|mismatching saucers.

At first it's too hot to handle, you can barely hold it.  Suddenly it becomes the only thing you need.
I already miss the sugar cubes and the clanging of the metal spoons. 

Istanbul is all about senses.  It's a city that can be explored a different way each time you see it.  I have said (and will continue to say) Istanbul is a place I never considered visiting on my own before.  Now that I have, I would go back without question.  I am lucky to have been there.
Topkapi Sarayi Complex|Court of the Black Eunuchs
Blye Mosque|Sultan Ahmet Camii
Sokollu Mehmet mosque|Sinan

2.26.2011

Off to Istanbul!

After the final jury for Project 2 the other day it finally hit me that our time in Rome is half over.   I could say various things that you would expect me to say...the usual things travellers in foreign countries say.  "It's gone by so fast...I feel like I could be here for years and still never see and understand all this city has to offer..."  I'll spare you this extended version and get down to what's happening today, how I feel at this moment.

Two days ago after Italian class we ventured out on our own to San Giovanni in Laterano, the Scala Sancta (Holy Stairs), and Santa Croce in Gerausalemme.  It was quite a religious afternoon.  San Giovanni was an incredible space with large scale sculptures of the apostles towering over a classically adorned nave, the most recent of the designers being  Francesco Borromini in 1655.  It was quite an impressive space in the mid-afternoon hours when a large beam of light streams in from the western windows.  We took the opportunity for a few action shots.
I'll spare you the rest of the History lesson and just leave a few links.
http://www.sacred-destinations.com/italy/rome-san-giovanni-laterano
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Croce_in_Gerusalemme

Now, as I stand over my computer I'm realizing the bus is about to leave and I should probably be going...
Istanbul is waiting.
Won't be posting for the next week, but looking forward to what I will share when I get back.

Till next time,
Chris

2.24.2011

From Champs-Élysées_Clemenceau to Guy Môquet

This trip to Paris was definitely a nice change from what I have come to expect from travelling here in Europe.  For the first time since I've been in Europe, I felt a bit of culture shock, something which I think I needed.
I can only hope I can go back at another time in my life to explore the city even more.
the famous macaroon_be careful with light pink

Centre Georges Pompidou_Renzo Piano

cheeses from beyond
Metro entrance_Hector Guimard

2.19.2011

wait a second.

I woke up today angry at my alarm.

I begin my day thinking of all the tasks ahead and start to get a little anxious.  This is definately a busy time in the semester for everyone.

After a quick lunch and a change of outlook I collect my things and head out the door, spring jacket and aviators at the ready.

I begin to take a few pictures, captured by the beauty of this Saturday afternoon, hoping that what I see can be captured through the lense of my camera.  What was at first a straight shot to Via Piazza del Biscione 95 turned into a stroll through the city.  I couldn't stop smiling. The experiences here in Rome are endless.  Every day is a new opportunity to see it in a different way, to smell different foods from the windows of studio, to find new places that inspire you. I think back to the dérive and wonder what a depiction of this journey would look like.  I would close my eyes and write words; conversations of people passing, sounds of laughter and motorcycles, thoughts interrupted by new thoughts.


The best part about my journey is that it can never happen the same way again.  The experience my own, the time is past and can only be remembered and shared.  This was a lesson in not taking things for granted.  I have to remind myself that this experience is only what I make it.  Writing this only makes me want to follow my nose to what I'm smelling outisde, but this studio project calls to me too.  I'll follow my senses tonight to find dinner, but for now it's back to work.


I only hope I push myself out of the door enough to see more days like today.
With the first sights of flowers on trees, I don't think this will be hard to do.

2.17.2011

A week later_the trip north

Ok, lots of time has passed and I haven't written much, I get it.  This whole computer charger deciding to break thing; not happy.  Getting back into it.  Our trip north was an experience which I cannot overlook.  Let's get into the details.

We started off our week in Firenze.  A train ride away from Rome, we got off the express from Termini and entered out into the land of Brunelleschi and leather.  Our program of the week, simply labeled "excursion 1" told us what was in store for us.  Because of the nice weather, we began our excursion at Santa Maria Novella for our first sketching assignment.  Our mission; find the geometries/ordering principles/regulating patterns of the façade  by Alberti.  Aight, I got this, a classic sketching assignment.  We’ve studied this building.  The design brings together the ideas of humanist architecture, with classically styled details and proportions while merging the interior basilica plan with a harmonious exterior composition.  The church was clear and articulated and the hidden squares start to make sense once the diagram begins to form itself.  It was a good warm-up, a way to get us looking at the subtleties of complex design solutions. 
Wasting no time we headed to the highlight of the day, Brunelleschi's, "brilliant engineering feat" as noted on our schedule.  Il Duomo, the masterpiece every student of architecture is secretly, not so secretly required to love is...well, it just is everything.  Winding stairways and crooked angles lead you up as you set a pace; you tell your body it isn’t tired as you progress higher.  Every small window reveals a hint as to how far up you actually are.  Only then you reach the first landing where your eyes widen and your senses heighten.  I look down and see tiny specks which I know are people looking up at me.  Emily tests my fear of things dropping something over an edge as she gets on her tip toes for a better picture over the scratched Plexiglas barrier (I am still cringing).  You climb four hundred and sixty three stairs and you finally make it.  We happen to exit on the windy side of the dome so, for the first few minutes all I can really think about it how beautiful the view is/ keeping my feet on the ground/camera wrapped around my hand.  After the rapid picture taking subsides and I take in the glorious view of Florence, I look down at a small bench and think, oh, that must have been difficult to carry up.  My eyes then casually travel over to a column holding up a buttress holding up the entire top of the dome and my concerns are instantly trumped.  After a half hour and a few group shots we reluctantly descended the glory that is the double shelled, brick masterpiece of Florence.
Next stop, Santa Croce, the Pazzi Chapel, Piazza Signoria and the Uffizi Gallery, enough said.  There was too much beauty to even begin writing about the experience.  End of day 1: group dinner of bistecca fiorentina, success beyond belief.

Day 2: First, New Sacristy by Michelangelo, Old Sacristy by Brunelleschi in San Lorenzo; did some sketching. Next, Galleria dell'Accademia to say hey to David among a vast collection of important early Renaissance pieces by Giotto.  Later on in the day we walked to Brunelleschi's Ospedale degli Innocenti, a beautiful piazza which drives home the Principle of the Second Man where one building informs the next and one unified space is created from the work of two or more architects.  From here we had the rest of the day off, mostly due to the cold morning.  We spent the afternoon exploring churches, gasping at expensive merchandise, and learning the art of a well made leather man purse at the expense of a cheaper bag’s stitching. Dinner was unplanned but quite literally 10 steps from the front door of the hotel making it that much better. 

3: Long train ride, catching up on sleep, conversations with Cervanamama about the snow in Bologna, thinking about last night’s episode of Grande Fratelli, failing at capturing the 4 seconds of snow viewing between tunnels, arriving in Venezia.  We checked into our hotel, glanced out of Lisa and Brigid’s balcony, and headed out for our day of learning.  Assignment one, get off the Vaporetto and start on a dérive to Piazza San Marco.  Not going to lie, I pretty much had this one mapped out in my mind, and the wall art definitely helped.

We explored a bit, saw our first glimpse of the basilica, the Doge’s Palace, and Carlo Scarpa work in Piazza San Marco and went to grab lunch at a local gem.  After Steve was unhappy with his “choice” of an anchovy filled fried mozzarella Panini we all collectively enjoyed a few pieces of fried calamari and weaved our way back to St. Mark’s Square.  We then re-grouped and entered the basilica, hoping to be wowed by the gold mosaic and grandeur of the space.  Instead we were roped off, pushed through, and forced to stand as we hopelessly tried to sketch the interior of this unforgettable church.  This was without a doubt a disappointment of a visit.  Whatever sadness we felt as spectators to the city of Venice was forgotten when we entered the realm of Carlo Scarpa and the Querini Stampalia foundation’s museum.  God is truly in the details, and Scarpa leaves no detail unfinished in his series of spaces within the museum.  I have been introduced to the work of an architect whom I now greatly admire. 
The next day (day 4) we travelled like a pack of penguins huddling to avoid the cold air as we visited two Palladio churches in Venice, Il Redentore and San Giorgio Maggiore.  Both churches were distinguishable as Palladian and were beautiful in their quiet simplicity.  Each used a layering system of columns with entablatures wrapping the upper portions of the church.  Bright light from the high windows gleamed on the white walls as we sat in the bitter cold and sketched before the funeral services planned for that afternoon were beginning to start in San Giorgio.  One more façade lesson from Eric and we walked together to the point of Venice where were took in the massive scale of Venice and had time for one more group shot.  Later on in the day; we started with an hour long boat ride to Cimitera San Michele, the island cemetery of Venice, and then we boated to Murano for some glass shopping, what else?  [Found a restaurant next door to our hotel once again this night; good food, but a waiter who insisted on practicing English despite my efforts to speak Italian].

            Day 5: Back to the train which we nearly had the wrong time for.  Off to Verona to see the façade of the Banco Populare, another interesting layering of elements with details I began to recognize as distinctly Scarpa. 

From here were departed to the Castelvecchio Museum, a playground of architectural wonder and ingenuity.  The castle itself is powerful and compact with prominent details of Gothic architecture mixed in with the ingenious detail of Scarpa’s modern work.  Every stairwell was a new experience, every view was framed in a different innovative way.  It was simply hard to take in all the beauty at once.
            A few hours later, we collected our bags out of the train station storage room and were off to Vicenza, or as we like to call it, Palladioville (or simply Palladio for Claire). 
We explored a bit on our own, found the McDonalds, looked a few Palladio works, and prepared for our group dinner.  A few of my classmates ordered horse steaks which must have been good knowing that it was all gone by the end of the meal.

6: I’ll explain this day in Lisa Nucera format.
-Funny cab ride to Villa Rotunda
-Exploring and sketching the exterior, watching frost melt as time went by.
-Realizing the building’s context and that it is on a plinth
-Lost my ticket, was almost not allowed inside
-Group walking tour down a massive colonnade
-Sketching of Basilica Palladiana| “But where will the other half go?” Learn that Andrew Speer doesn’t know what a bay of a façade is.
-Palazzo Valmarana, Teatro Olimpico- forced perspective stage “that we were not allowed to play on.” -Lisa
-Witnessed a heated argument on Via Palladio
-Ate crazy pizza
-Filled up Steve’s memory card with pictures of human pyramids
Day 7: Milano. First impressions of the city center of Milan are of the Duomo, glistening in the sunlight.  Every detail stuck out as flying buttresses flew over the sides of the church walls towering over the city square.  The Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele II stood out to me as we entered the square in front of the Duomo. What an amazing structure to walk through at all times of day with a feeling of indoor and outdoor qualities all at once.  The area was lively and vivid with hundreds of people moving about.  The inside of the Duomo was quintessentially Gothic.  High springing vaults, large open side aisles, and beautiful reflections from stained glass windows characterized the church. After the exploration inside, we once again climbed a second Duomo, but this time we walked on the roof; quite a different experience.  Walking around the perimeter of the church we casually took pictures of building details and one another model walking up and down the pitch of the roof.  It would be hard to forget this afternoon. I can’t forget to mention the group dinner with piano players & large pieces of mozzarella.

8
Another day in notes_I’m getting tired
-An modern architectural tour of Milan, on a bus.
-Major buildings visited: Renzo Piano's Il Sole 24 Ore.  Università Bocconi.
-Had an awkward interaction with Italian students in the University of Milan
-Explored every bit of new development in Milan; some which didn’t make much sense.
-After day 7, we were all anxious to get home, happy for the train ride back
-The train breaks
-Parti games
-Hop over the tracks onto a new car
-Everyone gets settled/ransacks the snack-stand in the new car
-I make friends with a native cab driver; my Italian improved with my state of sleepiness.


There’s so much to say about this trip it’s hard to write everything down.  Pictures speak for me where I cannot, but nothing compares to seeing it, being there.  It took this week in Northern Italy to realize how much we actually do love living in Rome.  I am grateful for this experience, I am ready to take in all the Italy has to offer, but most of all, I am happy that Rome is starting to feel like home.